The hidden necropolis of Muko City
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Kyoto city, from the hill above Arashiyama (Sept. 2006) |
From the new Hankyu station of Rakusaiguchi, it is perhaps 20 minutes walk west to Mozumi-cho and the location (not obviously marked) of the Nakakaido Jomon settlement site. In this area, Palaeolithic remains more than 12,000 years old have also been found. After leaving the station, head towards nearest hills, taking a turn left down a narrow alley immediately after the station arrival area. Turn right at end of alley to follow a narrow road alongside fields towards the hills.
From Mozumi-cho, a low ridge runs SE under the cover of bamboo forest, into Muko City. Along the ridge there is a remarkable assemblage of ancient to modern tombs and cemeteries. Since these are mainly under cover of forest, or low surrounded by urban development, they are not at all obvious. An alternative to walking is to take a taxi to the Muko City Culture Museum where the local archaeology is explained. For a good run, see the designated running route.
The ridge lies between Nagaoka, where Emperor Kanmu founded a capital city in 784, and present-day Kyoto. Ten years later the capital was moved to the present site of Kyoto. The Emperor's wife is buried in a large tomb, lying in a quiet area of forest on the ridge. A few streets away, a smaller mound with trees marks the site of Emperor Kammu's cremation.
Further down the ridge, in the vicinity of Muko-jinja (a beautiful shrine and garden complex), lie two enormous kofun tombs: Itsukahara Tomb (5th C AD) and Motuinari Tomb (early 4th C), the oldest in Muko City and excavated by Kyoto University in 1960 and again in 1970. Both tombs lie under forest and are now within public parks. A sticker on the Japanese-language signboards at Motuinari shows that this site is part of the Rekishi Kaido (Historical Route) project, but no information is available yet in the English website pages (May 2004).
In this area, on the NE side of the ridge, the farming villages shown on old maps are still present, but they have been filled in and surrounded by modern housing. Old village cemeteries are also scattered along the side of ridge. A large area of farmland belonging to local families is still actively farmed, between the ridge and the Hankyu railway line. From various vantage points along the ridge, we can look over the Kyoto basin and an open landscape that may resemble what has been visible for many thousands of years (rice fields are really just swamps with walls). This is one of the best places in Kyoto to see such a depth of history (the frogs are definitely happy to soak in it).
We can only hope that Muko City will continue to preserve the forests and open areas, despite the current boom of housing construction taking place alongside the Hankyu and JR railway lines. (PJM, 8th May 2004)
Access: (1) train to Hankyu Rakusai-guchi Station or Higashi-muko Station and walk, (2) train to Hankyu Katsura Station and hire a bicycle, (3) train to JR Mukomachi Station and take a bus or taxi to Rakusai-guchi or walk (bicycle hire may also be possible). Look for local area maps inside and outside the stations.